Saturday, October 18, 2008

What's Cooking With Dive? Squid Heaven

That's where I want to go when I die.
Let's face it; who among us has never wished they were a squid at some point in their lives?
er …
Hokay, so perhaps that's only me, then.
Hey ho.

What a fucking weird life that must be …
I mean look at these two: more arms and legs than they can possibly keep track of and a beak (yes, a beak) to eat with. Intelligent design, my arse!
And sexual organs on the ends of their arms; what the fuck is that all about?
Having said that; it seems a far more logical place to put them than where mine are.

And of course, they taste Goooood!

So … Squiddies.
What shall we do with them?

Well, as the French Market is in town I'll probably use some of this.
Any PDP people reading this should click on this to enlarge it and check out the name on the label.

Right! Back to our squiddies.
These are local squid from our frozen northern waters and are deliciously tender, unlike most squid you get from the Mediterranean which are tough and chewy and put a lot of people off what is in fact a fantastic fish (strictly a cephalopod but you try finding a cephalopodmonger in your town).

Rummaging around in David the Fishmonger's stock of fresh local squid I find a couple of good big ones. Ideal for stuffing and baking and that's just what we'll be doing today.
Unfortunately, one of them has burst its ink sac but that doesn't really matter as I'm not making risotto or any other dish that needs the ink; all it means is that things are gonna get messy.

Fun!

So … Let's get gross!

For anyone who's never prepared, cleaned and gutted squid, you'll need a bowl of water, a sense of humour and … er … some squid.

First up, grasp your squid just behind the eyes with one hand and get a firm grip on its baggy end with the other.
Then simply pull … gently to start with unless you want squid guts sprayed up your kitchen walls.

Et voila! The whole thing comes apart as easily as a celebrity marriage.
If you look closely you can see a kind of see-through plasticky bit poking out of the end of the nearest bag. That's how squid are assembled.
Deep under the sea in mermaid workshops, mer-child-labourers work day and night poking the plasticky rod into the bag end and then jamming the head assembly onto the other end.

The plasticky bit is called the quill and you can tug it out of the bag as easily as you pulled the head and guts off it.

Okey-dokey; we've disassembled our squid. Now to get gory and cut the head off.

We won't be needing the ink today but you can see where the ink sac is by the fact that it has burst on the squid at the top of this photo. Should you need it for risotto or making kinky black pasta, simply puncture it and squeeze the good stuff out.

To cut away the delicious tentacles, take a hold of the head and slice through a little bit in front of the eyes. Cut too far back and you'll end up with the beak as well.
It doesn't really matter as the squid beak can simply be pulled away from the tentacles … these things are really shoddily put together; never buy anything more complicated than a squid from a mermaid as it will fall to pieces as soon as you try to use it.

Right … Now discard the head and guts; either in the bin or in the cats, and wash out the bag and the tentacles in your bowl of cold water.
Like I said; this is really shoddy workmanship so the skin simply rubs off in your hands leaving a shiny, clean white bag.
The rear fins (some people call them "ears", but those people have such a rudimentary grasp of anatomy that you should never have sex with them or allow them to perform surgery on you) can - once again - be simply pulled away from the baggy bit, rinsed and the skin peeled away.

Which leaves us - once the tentacles are cut up - with a scene like this: squid carnage.
If you're frying these, simply slice the bags into rings and heat up your oil.
Today we shall be stuffing and baking them so we need the bags intact.

To make the stuffing I'm in a Provençal kind of mood and so I'll be using some of Eric's lovely French purple garlic, a strong organic local onion, some tomatoes, some ripped up basil and coriander leaf (cilantro) and a handful of black olives, stoned and cut in two.
Plonk these all in a bowl with the tentacles and the rear fins (having cut them into smallish bits), splosh on a good gloop of your most fantastic olive oil and get messy with your fingers.

Stuff the baggy bits with some of this mixture but be careful not to overfill them as they may burst and make an awful mess of your oven.
I filled mine about three-quarters full and then sewed up the ends, leaving a tiny bit of space for air to get out.
Lightly oil the bottom of a heavy fish casserole (le Creuset is good) and place the squid in there.

Into the bowl containing the remainder of the stuffing add a couple more tomatoes and a biggish glass of exceedingly good red wine.
Don't scrimp, because (a) cheap wine will ruin the dish, and (b) you've got to drink the rest of the bottle; so I used a nice St.Emilion (around £18 a bottle; you don't need to go crazy, just make it good).
Pour that mixture over and around the squid and it's ready to bake.

This lot needs to be covered (I used kitchen foil crimped around the dish) and baked in the oven at gas mark 3 (or whatever the equivalent might be in an electric oven or an Aga) for around one and a half hours.
This is a handy dish to make if you've got guests as it gives you plenty of time to make and eat a starter while it bakes.

Once it's done, whip off the covering and grate a generous amount of good organic Parmesan over the top then flash it under the grill until the cheese is melted and bubbling and turning golden brown.

Dish it up and eat the fucker.
Boy howdy this is tasty! Ludicrously healthy, fantastic fun to make and just as good to eat.
Yummy squid heaven, with love from Old Dive.
Enjoy!

35 comments:

Katie said...

I don't think I could make this, or even watch you make this (the photos I could handle ok), but I'd happily pop by to eat the finished product once it's done and the kitchen is all cleaned up! Looks like way too much trouble, but I bet it's delicious. Love all the commentary, as usual.

dive said...

Hi, Katie!
I hope you're making the most of your last Parisian weekend of the year.
The weather here in England is glorious; I hope it is there, too.

This is SO not trouble to make!
You can dress and clean a squid in a matter of seconds if you're not having to photograph each stage.
Plus the grossness factor makes it tremendous fun!

You are more than welcome to come and eat it (and anything else I cook) any time.

savannah said...

sometimes, just don't need to know how one of my favorite foods is prepared, sugar! ;) i just need to eat it and be deliciously happy and then clean up after dinner! xoxoxo

dive said...

Awwww … The ickiness is half the fun, Savannah!
Hee hee.
xoxox

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Ew. Well I think I could eat the baked bit, but all the slosh around it, with fish, puts me off. It's a 'me' thing, though, I'm sure it's gorgeous. I like my fish dry if you see what I mean. That was so entertaining; how have you not got your own tv show yet? More to the point, how are you still single?

dive said...

Lynn: that's just weird!
Garlic, onion, tomatoes, olive oil, olives, herbs and red wine is "slosh"?
You'd starve in southern Europe! Hee hee.

I've not got my own TV show because I'd rather die than be on TV, and I'm still single because women would rather die than date me.
Go figure.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Go figure? No, I'm British. LOL !!

No, you misunderstand or I didn't explain properly. The slosh, I absolutely adore - all those ingredients are my staples! It's just with fish. I know, as I said, it's a 'me' thing. Never have liked fish in slosh (a Lynn word, not derogatory at all, just meaning sauce). I love it baked and dry. A quirk, I suppose. Love it all....just...not together. x

Those women are missing out.

dive said...

Ooooh, you're missing out on so much, Lynn! "Slosh" sauce, cream sauce, mornay sauce, fish curries, Thai, Pinoy, Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, the list of yummy wet fish dishes goes on and on.

I'm good with fish but I never could figure out women. Hee hee.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Yeah...wet fish...yeah, that's it. Ugh. Give me dry, baked in preference. Any other casserole, saucey dishes are ... really lovely. I cook a lot of them. Sauces are key and this one of yours is fairly typical for me. Just not with fish. For me.

Katie and I would pick the bits out of this evening. I could easily stomach the cutting up, preparing, clearing up, cooking and she could do nothing of that bit, she would sit down and eat it and thoroughly enjoy it. Whilst I'd be happy to be in the kitchen, making it for the two of you! he he I'm actually very easy to work out and eat most things. Just not that. LOL. I'd love to try the stuffed pieces on their own though. Yum.

dive said...

Hee hee, Lynn. I love preparing and cooking food too much to want someone doing that for me.
I'll make this for Katie and grilled wild salmon for you.

Terroni said...

I've never read a squid disassembly how-to before. It was fascinating!

I've been sick with a whooper of a cold for the last three days, so I think I'll be making some sort of soup this afternoon.

dive said...

Oh, poor you, T!
Get better soon!
Whenever I've got a bad cold I make really hot and spicy food to try to kill or cure.

You should try squid disassembly. It is such fun. The things just come apart in your hands.
Weird.

Terroni said...

Hmmm...that's a thought. Maybe some chili peppers would clear my sinuses.

dive said...

Doctor Dive swears by 'em. Hee hee.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Oooh lovely!

Scout said...

Another marvelous entry in Dive's future cookbook. This stuff looks disgusting, but all of the ingredients are great, so I can only assume it's wonderful all together.

Joy said...

When I saw the first photo, I thought I was looking at white mice! :D I was scared, Dive.

This looks really good, and I hope next time you eat stuffed squid it'll be Pinoy style :D

Anonymous said...

I love squid and that presentation looks like an oral delight. And who doesnt enjoy an oral delight? But I digress. I have found an organic farm here that produces purple garlic and it is fabulous. I love your recipe and I will attempt this dish. Thanks Dive.

Shazza said...

Oh gross

Maria said...

This shows the difference between Bing and me...

I am sitting here looking at your photos with a very squeamish eye and Bing walks by, stops, and says, "Yum..that looks delicious!"

All I could think was that the finished product looked fine and dandy, but I would be sick to my stomach if I had to prepare it.

But, that's just me. Consider the source. I like velveeta cheese.

neetzy said...

Dive,

This looks absolutely delicious! I love Provencal. I'll do anything for a good olive (almost). I wish I could get your tender Northern squid.

Anonymous said...

"Your tender Northern squid" sounds obscene, but in a good way. ;-)

I've never had squid - I'm too squeamish. How does it taste?

I read your "Amanda" archives and I judged her too harsh. Or maybe I'm just in a better mood today! She definitely livens up an office.

Anonymous said...

This just in: I remember once having a teensy tiny bite of squid, but don't remember how it tasted. I think the look of it is what I found unappealing.

MmeBenaut said...

No way! I'm never eating squid (calamari) ever again. Ever noticed how most of the icky cooking jobs are done by men?
I rather like looking at them in the water, changing colours with the electric pulses running through their bodies.

But, I appreciate the almost affectionate way in which you prepare your meals with the utmost attention to detail dear Dive. Whoever ate that second one was a lucky person!

Neponset River Bridge Dig said...

Yummy,dive whats for desert?

dive said...

Lynn: I certainly am!

Robyn: My cooking looks disgusting?
OW!
Well, you can just sit in the scullery and eat bread and dripping while the rest of us enjoy ourselves around the dining table.
And no dessert for you, young lady!

Joy: Just give me the recipe and let me loose on it.

Mark: I'm honoured. Thank you very much indeedy.

Shazza: Hee hee hee. Squid disassembly is not for the squeamish.

Maria: Another reason you are so lucky to have Bing.
I had no idea what velveeta was until I just looked it up.
Apparently it is not sold here as we like cheese.

Here's a quote:
"In 2002, the FDA warned Kraft that Velveeta was being sold with packaging that described it as a "pasteurized processed cheese food," which the FDA claimed was false ("cheese food" must contain at least 51% cheese). Velveeta is now sold as a "cheese product," using a term for items that contain less than 51% cheese."
EWW!
Never mind squid disassembly; velveeta sounds TRULY gross!

Cali: Hee hee! My tender northern squid is very happy right now.
Squid tastes a little like octopus.
That's probably not going to be much help, is it?

Mme: "Calamari" is gross! Fried Mediterranean squid rings. Tough and chewy and icky with grease. That's the dish that puts most people off squid.
Cooked properly at home (and with good squid and good oil; not the industrial crap they use in Greek beachfront tavernas) it can be fantastic but I've never found an edible version in any restaurant (especially around the Med).

They are very pretty in the water, but unfortunately for them, they taste exceedingly good.
Men love icky jobs because men are intrinsically icky. Hee hee,

Rich: Squid ice cream, of course.

Volmon said...

My mother won't eat lobster because she's convinced they're actually a species of underwater spider. She finds eels equally repulsive because, according to her, they're nothing more than glorified snakes. As for snails, you may as well offer her cockroach soup or maggot muffins. She does eat offal, though, and derives devilish pleasure from audibly sucking the marrow out of our discarded bones, which she collects from our plates with all the calm and fussiness of an experienced jewel buyer - so she's not COMPLETELY weird!

dive said...

Lucio: your mother is right, although I love lobster, eel and snails, and I've probably eaten quite a few spiders in my sleep (cats seem to find them yummy so they probably are).
Also, like all kids who went fishing I've eaten the odd maggot from my bait box for a dare.
I am a huge fan of offal of all kinds. And I've offended a great many bloggers by happily eating whalemeat.
Even though I was a strict veggie for fifteen years or so I recognise that we higher apes are omnivores so I'm happy to go with the flow.

There's a kind of icky fascination with putting weird stuff in your mouth that all babies have and I've not lost it.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

You ate a maggot? Ew, Dive. I went fishing a lot when I was a child, was chased by maggots yes, but I've never heard of such a dare. Ew. Ew.

Alifan said...

Sorry you tempted me to look in..... and just read your last comment.. now where is the photo of you looking very sqeamish when Full gave you a worm to hold????and you ate fish bait??I do remember Full leaving the bait in my fridge and they hatched!!!!!

Very good post though.....I will go now and hide.....

dive said...

ALL boys ate maggots, Lynn.

Mum: I shall have to find a worm recipe to post next.

Anonymous said...

My kids squirm and gag every time I bring home squid. I cleaned 8 lbs of it just a couple of weeks ago for my Dad's birthday present. In our family it is always cooked in a spicy tomato sauce and eaten with copious amount of crusty bread. Nothing like it! I hate it when I can't find the whole squid because they (the market) cleans it so there is no ink left to make the sauce a deep burgundy and we all know eating is done first by sight.

dive said...

Yay! Your dad sure is lucky, Prudence.
Mmmmm … Your recipe sounds delicious!

Anonymous said...

Dear Dave
When I saw the fist photo I thought
I was looking at a nasty,vomit-worthly but brilliant spectacle
of Bacon or Damian Hisrst !
And I thought:"who exactly is the man behind this image?".Davenian
Mystery? Ah!Ah!

dive said...

I've yet to try squid cooked in formaldehyde but it's a tempting notion.