Sunday, October 12, 2008

Katie And Dive Do London Pt.4

We left Katie at Big Ben about to cross Parliament Square where she would encounter someone wonderful …

A great man needs a great gal and this is a pretty good combination.
Abe Lincoln in the distance behind Katie's shoulder nods his approval.

Here's the great man himself at the unveiling of his statue last August and here's a link to my photo post of the event should anyone need a reminder why racism is not welcome on my planet.

So … The sun is out, the sky is blue, let's hit the parks and enjoy the fresh, crisp October air.

Regular blogpals will be all too familiar with this backdrop.
The bridge across the lake in St.James's Park takes me from my office to the heart of St.James and Piccadilly, regular lunchtime haunts so I walk across here rather a lot.

The view one side takes in the Parasite House … but who cares what's in the background when Katie's in the foreground?

… while the other side leads to Horseguards Parade, Downing Street and the Eye just across the river.

For anyone who may not know, If you amble from Parliament Square into St.James's Park you can walk the length of the park and cross at the top of The Mall into Green Park, then walk across that and enter Hyde Park … miles and miles of lush greenery with lakes and trees and flowers and beautiful places to wander and sit. And all right in the heart of the West End.
It's where I often come to de-stress.

And now Katie has come to visit and has brought us this glorious sunshine! Yay!

We take a stroll along Piccadilly to pick up lunch and stop at Fortnums to admire the hampers (Lynn, stop drooling) and to pop in and buy some of their glorious tea (Katie now has a swish Fortnums bag to match yours, Mme).

Something else regular readers will be familiar with (and indeed Mme and MB) is sushi and sashimi bought from Yoshino and eaten in the beautiful surroundings of Green Park.

Why sit in some dingy basement restaurant or in a crowded sushi bar when you can breathe the fresh air and enjoy a view like this with your lunch?
It is the perfect day for al fresco and we sigh at the beauty of it all as we demolish our yummy food in the dappled sunshine under the spectacular plane trees of Green Park.

Then we head back across the grass toward The Ritz and Piccadilly, refreshed, replete and now hungry for more culture!

Halfway along Piccadilly is the arched entrance to the courtyard that conceals the Royal Academy.
And tucked away on the top floor (again, regrettably with no photography allowed) is the delightfully light-hearted and very French exhibition we are heading for.

In what must have been a lifetime of pure pleasure, Parisian art dealer M. Aimé Maeght befriended the greatest artists of his generation and built up the marvellous collection housed in the Fondation Marguerite et Aimé Maeght in Saint Paul, some of the gems from which we are about to enjoy ourselves.

Greeting us as we enter is a wall-sized Matisse, followed by a roomful of beautiful Bonnards but the main exhibition concentrates on Joan Miró's bright and gloriously exuberant paintings, contrasted with George Braque's dark late cubism, while filling the gallery space between the walls (and over our heads) are slender and elegant Giacometti figures and the wild and wonderful mobiles and sculptures of Alexander Calder.

The overriding sensation in these wonderful rooms is of pure joy and a playfulness that would never be guessed at from simply looking at pictures of these works in art history books.

A lot of the exhibits are from the personal collection of the Maeght family and include outrageously light-hearted paintings and sculptures I have never seen in any book and the sheer fun of it all is almost shocking!

In amongst the displays are videos of the family's home movies including film of the artists working and chatting and eating and a lovely little vignette of Mme. Maeght and Alberto Giacometti dancing around the studio to an old gramophone.
Marvellous!

Neither of us have ever seen a Calder painting before - only being familiar with his giant mobiles - but here are a veritable feast of them and they are real eye-openers; together with tiny mobiles, sculptures and light-hearted sketches.

There is a strangely disturbing book by Braque featuring on its cover what appears to be a false breast and - lo and behold - on reading the accompanying notes we discover that Braque purchased a box of seventy of these breasts from the United States military where they had been used (get this) to boost soldiers' morale during wartime.
Next time you meet a WWII Veteran, ask 'em about the boobs.
The world can be a wonderful place if you peer into the odder nooks and corners.

Close to my own heart, Aimé Maeght published a myriad of limited edition small press books featuring works by his favourite poets and artists, carefully chosen and beautifully executed. Many examples are on display here and I'm afraid my rare book lust gets the better of me and I go into hyperactive two-year-old mode.

We leave the exhibition with faces wreathed in smiles. This really is a feel-good show and I highly recommend it to anyone wanting to see a side of modern art that is often hidden (as well as a stunning display of pieces from post-war Europe's very best artists).

And so, with a song in our hearts and a spring in our step, Katie and Dive head off down Haymarket, turning left at the bottom to find … well, we shall discover that tomorrow!

On the way, Katie goes "Oooh!" and dashes into a shop, emerging with something that is not apparently available in the States; a chunky Yorkie Bar with "It's Not For Girls" written on the side.
Which she promptly demolishes beside what has to be the pinkest sari I've seen in many a moon.

Check back tomorrow, Katie fans. We crammed so much into two days that I still have enough photos for three more posts!

33 comments:

Alifan said...

Great lovley pics again.... loved the sushi.. and of course the Yorkie bar!!

dive said...

Ha! You can't have that; it's not for girls!

Joy said...

Boy, Yorkie?!

I want that sushi!!! When/if I go down to London sometime late November, I must have lunch with you in that park - but not sit on the grass. OCD alert!

It's nice to show someone around a place you love when they're all game for the sprinting, and the dashing, and the stopping (for shopping). I can feel the energy you guys used up running all over town. You certainly painted it red!

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

I adore the sari. That's pink! Doesn't she look pretty?

Another gorgeous route, Dive and one of which I know bits. Sitting outside eating that Sushi must have been glorious. What a lot of it you had! Phew.
The Yorkie - I've always thought that must be a marketing flop, surely. For girls, it would just make them feel huge to buy it, having been warned (not Katie of course she's thin as a pencil). It puts me off for sure, even though I adore Yorkies.
Good to see Buckingham Palace, if only a tiny dot of it.
The hamper - oohhh yes I was drooling. They were always gorgeous. I really must go to Fortnums when I'm there. Would I still recognise it? Doubtful.

M.Benaut said...

Crikey, old son,

I certainly know what this wonderful voyage of discovery was like for the two of you.

I know what it's like to have had so many marvellous experiences at every footstep and i know how Katie felt to have you as a tour guide.

We were blown-away and astounded at all the attractions and your profound knowledge of everything that we were shown. It was a day to remember, and remember it, we will.

The problem is to post the shots, there are just so many !
I must have taken a couple of hundred, and herself at least as many.

I have truly enjoyed this series and it has reminded me of the path we trod, just the other day. I've said it before, "You are a gem !!! "

Next time I'll wear a pink sari, eat more sushi and to hell with the corgis!
By the way, - I hear Camilla can't swim.........

dive said...

Joy, it may be a little too chilly to eat outside in November, but Yoshino does takeaway hot miso (made fresh for you) and hot rice bento boxes so maybe we can wrap up warm and huddle under the trees sipping our miso.
I wouldn't advise wearing your flip-flops though!

Lynn: You should go to the East End (or just travel on the District Line); the saris are so beautiful and in so many bright colours.

Sitting in the park watching the sun through the leaves was glorious. What a wonderful place to have lunch.

Fortnums doesn't change - apart from the wonderful shop window displays, and we'll definitely go there when you visit.

dive said...

Monsieur! Welcome!
This must have been a trip down memory lane for you.
I've been loving seeing your photos (and Mme's). As soon as I can track down another CD box I'll be sending you all of mine and would be most grateful if you would pop yours in the box and send it back again so I can enjoy the day anew.

The thought of you in a pink sari is enough to keep me giggling like a fool from here to Christmas! Hee hee hee.

Anonymous said...

Thanks yet again, Dive, for this great tour through London. The sushi looks fabulous. It's wonderful to see so many people on the grass--not like Paris. When my daughter was an au pair, she started teaching the little kids gentle subversive behavior by taking them onto the grass in parks until they were shooed away.

I imagine you will still be posting photos until long after Katie is back in SF.

dive said...

Hee hee, Lupine Lady; I do love subversive behaviour!
And I still have another couple of days worth of Katie photos - including some boffo mosaics - but not quite enough to last until she gets home.

Neponset River Bridge Dig said...

It almost looks like love is in that October air, dive. Ya never know. great photos as I've been getting a tour myself here as well.

dive said...

I love you, too, Rich. Hee hee.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Yes I bet that trip would make gorgeous photos Dive. Think I'll stick with Fortnums though. lol.

dive said...

Lynn: We could probably spend all day in Fortnums (and all my money).
Hey ho.

Katie said...

Well Dive I'm sure people are getting tired of me by now, but your posts are really fun to read (for me it's almost like I'm reading about someone else though). I especially liked your description of the fake breasts in the exhibit. Classic! I can't wait to see more of your mosaic photos, as your camera is a bit more advanced than mine. That Yorkie bar was ok, but I'm really more of a Crunchie gal. I bought 3 at the train station!

dive said...

People could NEVER grow tired of you, Katie!
Oh, those fake breasts! What a giggle! I'm dying to find out more about the military's "morale boosters". I wonder how many Vets have one hidden away in the attic. Hee hee.

I've not eaten a Crunchie since I was a kid but I shall make a point of trying one asap.
Lynn posted a naked version a couple of days ago!

MmeBenaut said...

I don't know what a "yorkie" is. I like crunchie bars though. Is it like that?

Ah F & M's tea. Lucky girl that Katie!! lol.

Great pics and trip down memory lane. Tks Dive dear.

dive said...

Mme: a Yorkie is simply an over-sugary bar of big lumps of icky milk chocolate (says the chocolate snob).

F&M's tea is much nicer!
yum!

Cynthia said...

Wow, you guys must be exhausted! What an incredible amount of sightseeing and eating you and Katie did in just two days. I love your wonderful photos and especially your description of the Maeght exhibit. I once saw some miniature Calders and was completely transfixed. Can hardly wait for Part 5 tomorrow! Katie for sure is a fun person to be with.

dive said...

There's never a dull moment with Katie, as you well know, Cynthia.
She is so FIT! She never once looked like flagging, no matter how many miles I forced her to walk.

The exhibition was surprising and delightful; the Fondation in France must be well worth a trip.

Anonymous said...

Well, Dive, you must be pretty fit yourself that you can show all these bloggers around for days at a brisk clip.

I have a friend who has an excellent memory regarding his times of travel "at the government's expense" during WWII. I'll write to him to ask what he remembers about morale boosting (does that mean push-up bras?) during his time at war. And then will get back to you.

dive said...

Hi, Lupine Lady.
My commute each day involves two, five mile dashes across London, involving running up escalators at the station and I love walking, so Katie was the ideal companion.

Push-up bras! Hee hee!
I must say we were both startled and much amused to read the history of the false breasts. I'd love to hear if they were standard issue.

savannah said...

i am so loving this tour of london, sugar! it's a grand wow, how did i miss that? next-time-i-am-so-going-there kinda tour! xoxox

dive said...

Next time, you're coming with ME, Savannah!
xoxox

Scout said...

Nope. You can't buy Yorkie bars in the states. Not for girls indeed.

You really did so many things in just two days. How fun, and exhausting.

dive said...

We did! Next time you come over, bring your walking shoes (rather than your mother-in-law). Hee hee. Apologies to Elizabeth but she did kinda slow us down, didn't she?

Anonymous said...

Another grand post Dive. I am almost feeling guilty because you are providing this for free. It's worth paying for. That park you and Katie had lunch in looks very inviting. What a treasure. Im sure the park is a treasure as well. lol Keep posting those great photos and vivid descriptions.

dive said...

Cheers, Mark. The posts kinda write themselves, and wandering the city with someone like Katie is hardly the most unpleasant task in the world, as I'm sure you can imagine.

neetzy said...

I'm insanely jealous right now! What a beautiful day! I never knew Calder painted either. I love Bonnard. I wish I was there with the two of you.

Maria said...

Ok..what exactly is a Yorkie bar? Because it sounds so good...

Maria said...

Ok...I just read all of the comments and I can tell straight away that I was meant to eat Yorkie bars...

Anonymous said...

What a great tour guide you are! Not only for Katie but for those of us who have never been to London.

Terroni said...

I'm loving the Katie and Dive tour. And the sushi...I have to admit, I had never had good sushi until I went to New York. We ordered it when we were on call in Queens one night, and I finally understood what all the fuss was about. (Apparently, I'd been eating some shitty raw fish up until then.)

dive said...

Neetzy: the exhibition's on for a while. Come on over. Hee hee.
Calder's paintings are so much fun. Most of the ones in the exhibition seem to have been done at the Maegh's home and you can tell he was having a great time.

Maria: Yorkie bars are pretty sickly.

Cali: Thank you; I do rather enjoy showing blogpals around the city.

Hee hee, T. The place I go is cheap but good; it's in the Japan Centre in Piccadilly and is always packed full of Japanese people on a lunchtime; a sure sign that it's good stuff.