Tuesday, December 30, 2008

The Great Hospital, Pt.1

Hokay, it's time for another wander around the older and odder corners of Norwich.
As some of you know, Mike and I returned yesterday to one of our old haunts, The Great Hospital.

This is a small part of it; St.Helen's Church (as was).
Back in the 1100s, the Parish of St.Helen was having a bit of a sticky time with the arrogant Norman monks in the Cathedral next door.
This wasn't helped by the fact that the good folk of the city, and especially St.Helen's and neighbouring St.Giles' wards got so totally (and quite justifiably) pissed off with the Norman Yoke that they did what Norwich folk have been doing regularly ever since: they rioted, kicked out the monks and burned the monastery and its gates (as documented in a couple of earlier posts that show the late twelfth century gates that the twat-faced bloody Normans forced the people to build to replace the ones they'd trashed).

Anyhoo, by 1249, Bishop Walter Suffield of St.Giles wheedled St.Helen's church and the surrounding land away from its previous owner, William of Dunwich - who was glad to see the back of it - and moved St.Giles' hospital into it; where - as "The Great Hospital" it has been going strong ever since.

Poor old William of Dunwich didn't have much luck after that as not many years later Dunwich itself fell into the sea and was swallowed up in a great storm.
Hey ho.

The Great Hospital itself was originally meant to care for the clergy of Norwich who had become too old, sick or pervy for duty, but mutated over the centuries to become what it still remains: a care home for the city's old and weird (Hi, Mister Plumbly! Yes, you know I'm talking about you).

Here is another part of it, looking from Bishopgate toward the Chaplain's House.

Before we peer inside at some of the older, prettier and distinctly odder parts, please allow me to reminisce about the east window of St.Helen's; bane of my life for many years.

Back in the seventeenth century, a floor was inserted halfway up the church (you'll see the result tomorrow) and the east window got rather fucked up.

As you can see from yesterday's photo, the bottom of the window disappeared completely and the rest of it up to the floor level got infilled. To cap it all, they built a fucking great chimney all the way up the middle of it.

The infill has been painted over and awaits further repair but at least the stonework has been repaired now and the wall stabilised.

Here's what it looked like when I surveyed it. Sorry about the quality of the pictures but these things are A1 size and it would take me days to scan them in and stitch them together so I took some crappy and out of focus photos instead.

The whole east wall back then had rotted away to such an extent it had the consistency of a dunked biscuit and was peeling away from the rest of the building at an alarming rate.
We scaffolded it inside and out and shored it up (it took many years to get the whole lot repaired) and Old Dive clambered up there and measured every single piece of stone and flint and rotten brickwork for the stonemasons to work out what they had to do.

Here are a couple of views of the inside (sorry, but my stupid camera didn't want to focus on these).
This one shows where the floor got inserted, the stairs and the chimneybreast …

And this one shows the parlous state of the stonework behind the chimney.

Here's some of the restored stonework. You see the gap between the window and the chimney? I had to clamber in there with a torch and measure it all.
Sheesh!

The stainless steel bracing may not be pretty but it stops the whole of the end wall falling out.

So that's a brief introduction to a little part of the hospital and one of the many cold, cramped, uncomfortable and occasionally painful things Mike and I had to do to keep the place going.
Tomorrow we shall start looking at fun and pretty (and weird) stuff.

If any of you are remotely interested in the older and prettier parts of Norwich and its glorious history of revolutionary rioting, click on the "Norwich" link at the bottom of this post and have a good rummage in the archives.

30 comments:

Alifan said...

Lovely .. we did used to worry about you clambouring over all the roof tops etc...do you wonder your back is bad....

Looking forward to more.....

dive said...

Mike and I were laughing yesterday about the crappy tower of St.Stephens where we got battered about the head severally by old masonry.
Which perhaps explains a lot about how we turned out.

Vic said...

So why on earth did they build a chimney up the guts of such a gorgeous window? Is there a justifiable reason for it?

dive said...

Vic: back in the seventeenth century they figured they had to look after all these sick and elderly people and sitting in the middle of their land was this cavernous old building, so they simply stuck in another floor (in a hilariously clumsy manner as you shall see later) and put a big old fireplace in each end because, frankly, it is fucking freezing in there.
Norwich has a church on just about every street (several on some of the older streets) so there are still plenty of beautiful windows to go round.

Katherine said...

What an utterly cool job to have, Dive--restoring old monuments like that! Though I'm not sure I'd like to be a resident, considering the building's bloody history. Then again, the whole Earth has a bloody history.

I think I might have to relocate.

dive said...

I would dearly love to be a resident there when I get old, Katherine, but unfortunately I don't qualify.
When you see the pretty bits you may change your mind.

savannah said...

how exciting and what satisfying work, sugar! savannah is no where near as old, but i think you'd enjoy the architecture and history. looking forward to the next installment! xoxoxo

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Very interesting Dive! I don't think I've ever read an historical piece full of f words though before!

dive said...

Savannah, I really think you should do a photopost on historical Savannah. It would be cool!
Hey! One more day until the big day! yay!
xoxox

Lynn: try Chaucer. He had a splendid way with profanity.
Hee hee.

Scout said...

Fascinating. I can't wait to see tomorrow's post!

Are those metal braces permanent?

dive said...

Robyn, they - and the crappy old infill - will be there until some other, less intrusive way is found to stabilise the end wall.
They look a lot better than the scaffolding and timber shoring that was holding it up before!

Anonymous said...

A fabulous history lesson. Thank you. Nice job saving that historic building. It makes you wonder just how they designed and constructed building hundreds of years ago. I guess back then the mindset was to build something that would last for centuries. Great post Dive.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Oh there are plenty of masters of literature with such words, Dive and certainly Chaucer is one of them! It makes a change though to see a report of history or architecture peppered with them! There must be a market out there...

dive said...

Thanks Mark.
Back then, more than half of what they built fell down, including Norwich cathedral.
The beautiful tracery and delicate flying buttresses that people marvel at these days were not the result of some fantastic engineering achievement; they are merely the only things they tried that didn't collapse.

Lynn: you know me; why use my brain to think of an intelligent word when I can swear instead?

Volmon said...

This work seems to lie somewhere between restoring 18thC porcelain and rock climbing. However, while the intricacy is fascinating, the arduous clambering about at great heights makes me glad I opted for a job that allows me to keep my feet on the ground at all times (except, of course, when I'm having one of those "flights of fancy" reveries I'm so prone to). Looking forward to Pt. 2.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Yes I know you, Dive, and it doesn't take much thinking for you to use an intelligent word.

Volmon said...

Dibe/Lynn: Pooh, a self-confessed "Bear of Very Little Brain", offers the following morsel of wisdom:

'It is more fun to talk with someone who doesn't use long, difficult words but rather short, easy words like "What about lunch?"'

Volmon said...

*Dive*

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

lol Pooh's funny.

Maria said...

I'm confused. Why did they put the chimney right there? And what was with the floor?

I keep looking at the photo thinking that I am missing something.

neetzy said...

I always suspected those flying buttresses were just fancy names for supports. At least they look pretty. All of those lovely gothic arches and windows to help us common folk "look up to God" in the heavens! Thank you Dive for helping us po-folk. I think it is amazing what you are doing. Keep those ancient buildings. They are an historical treasure.

Katie said...

Really fascinating story and photos and drawings. Except for having to creep around in high places with a flashlight, sounds like it was a great architecture gig! I can just imagine The Great Hospital filled with a bunch of Father Jacks, although Norwich is no Craggy Island.

Joy said...

Is that the one on Bishopsgate?

dive said...

Hi, Lucio.
Yes, the east window was in such a state that I could poke my finger into some of the stonework and when the wind blew hard the whole wall would rock back and forth. We rescued it just in time.

Lynn: Pooh is indeed funny and the longest word he used was "heffalump" so I shall continue happily on my sweary and unintelligent way.

Maria: They needed an extra floor to house all the people they had to look after (putting an extra floor in an existing building is a whole lot cheaper than constructing a new building) and they needed to heat the place so they simply put a chimney at each end.
We're talking seventeenth century puritans here and you know from American history what a joyless bunch of beauty-hating killjoys they were.

Neetzy: If you check right back in my "Norwich" archives to "Making Peahen Homesick Pt.2" you will see the most beautiful flying buttresses on the planet high up on the east end of Norwich Cathedral.
But yes; a flying buttress is simply a very decorative stone version of "leaning a piece of timber against a wall to stop it falling over".

While we were looking after the Great Hospital one of our other jobs was the quinquennial inspection and renovations/ repairs of over five hundred Norfolk churches dating from around 800AD through to the late gothic period. When I'm laying on my deathbed I can be proud of the work I did there.
I love them.

Katie: doing those measured drawings was great fun. Much as I love all my 3D computer work I do miss the old drawing board.
The Great Hospital is still filled with Father Jacks and Mrs. Doyles. It has more residents than ever before and is flourishing.
Norwich is a kind of island of sanity in the Deliverance country / Craggy Island of Norfolk, much like SF is a beacon of sanity in the nuthouse that is California.

Joy: Yes it is. It's the one I want to take you around but we shall have to wait for their next open day as on non open days a tour costs £50.

Petrea Burchard said...

What a fascinating post, Dive. This and the next. I'm looking forward to part 3. I'd love your job. I'm in the wrong business.

Were the Normans really twat-faced? I'm trying to picture it.

dive said...

Hi, Petrea.
Happy New Year!
Hey, it's just gone midnight in California so please allow me to dance you around the room. Hee hee.
The Normans most certainly were! They did a cover-up job on the Bayeux Tapestry to make them look more human.
We look upon them much as Native Americans look upon you guys. Except that we managed to kick most of them out after a couple of hundred years.

Petrea Burchard said...

So are you a Briton or a Saxon? How does one know, after all this time? You look Saxish to me. I like to think I'm of British descent because my father's background (way, way, way back) comes from over that way.

dive said...

I'm Saxon, Petrea.
My family and its related families have lived in the same few villages (just across the river from where I live now) since around 1250 according to gravestones and parish rolls. Prior to that it was Danelaw here for a while so I must assume we came over in the main Saxon migration between the end of the Roman occupation in the late fourth century and Sweyn's raids in the 800s.

Petrea Burchard said...

Nothing fascinates me like British history, and all those early machinations.

We have to leave for a couple of days, but some time I'd love to talk about it.

dive said...

I'm a history fanatic, Petrea (check out the amount of history books on my shelves: http://smallglassplanet.blogspot.com
/2008/11/pimp-my-dante.html)
I'm always up for chat about early machinations.