This is Suffield Court, between St.Helen's and the river.Originally built in 1937 around three sides of a glorious bowling green.
Inevitably, when they were originally built, each resident had but a single room (one window for each, with another row of rooms along the back) and there were no kitchens or inside toilets.
Residents ate in the Refectory (where a lot of them still do from choice and who can blame them? It's beautiful) and used the communal outside privies near the river.
Back in those days bathrooms were totally unheard of!
Still, it was a major step up from the cubicles still in use in Eagle Ward.
In the late 1960s things were improved a little in that each resident was allotted two rooms (one of which was split in half to give a small inside privy) and the remainder of the old folk were relocated to a new building our old boss designed (which is so execrably 1960s that I will never photograph it for danger of smearing his reputation).Since Mike and I got hold of it, however, every second front door behind these porches has been blanked off and each resident has a big and beautiful living space (I'll show you where we rehoused the displaced folk in a minute).
Here's Mikey, reminiscing with me about all the hassle we had renovating these places.
On to the back of each bungalow we built a matching extension with a lovely big kitchen and bathroom in it, with fully accessible features for wheelchair and ambulant disabled use so a lot of the residents can cope without a nurse now.That little square outshot is one of them, behind the somewhat scummy pool in the foreground which is not a swimming pool gone to seed but something far more fun.
From the late 1240s until quite recently The Great Hospital was granted rights from the king to herd swans.
Every spring a "swan-upping" was held where all the swans and cygnets from the river would be rounded up and the cygnets allocated to the different people in Norwich (72 in all) who had the royal right to eat them.
The Great Hospital's cygnets were then held in the Swan Pit - which is fed via two small creeks from the river - and were fattened on grain for the Master and the clergy to feast upon (remember the old folk in Eagle Ward subsisted on bread and gruel).
This practice only ceased in the 1950s.
The pit here has been partially drained for maintenance but usually it is a lot prettier.
Round the back of Suffield Court you can just about see where we are going next.
This is the rear courtyard of Suffield Court that we built to house the residents squeezed out of the front half. We tried to make it look as close as possible like the original with of course fewer porches as each bungalow is much bigger and quite luxurious.We built much larger, two storey version a couple of hundred yards away in the direction Mike is looking (Young's Green) where folk from the Eagle Ward's cubicles and Holme Cottages (a similar set of bungalows to this) were rehoused.
Here's the view of the Cathedral from the corner of the bowling green.That's the back of the Chaplain's House from yesterday's post in front of us.
Just around the corner are these cute little cottages on two sides of a green. The ones on the other side are residents' cottages but these ones hold the reception and some of the offices for running the hospital.The third door up with the little plaque beside it is the "door of doom" where Mike or I would trudge to hear the Master moan about the builders or lack of money or just moan for the hell of it.
We've seen a little less than half of the hospital but as most of the rest of it was not accessible on this particular open day you'll have to wait until another year to see more.In the meantime let's walk through one of the many little walled gardens and take a gander inside St.Helen's church, around which the hospital is clustered.
Being the church for the residents of The Great Hospital it probably has a bigger congregation than any other in the city due to its captive audience.
The vaulting and bosses of the Chantry Chapel are particularly lovely. They depict scenes from the lives of Jesus and Mary with the apostles around the outside and were carved by John Everard who was one of the masons working on the bosses in the Cathedral (take a looky here).
Above the altar hangs a copy of Raphael's "Transfiguration" from the Vatican, endowed by the owner of Geldeston Hall, a large country house I had the pleasure of totally restoring (one day I'll dig out the photos and scan them in … it's nice).Mike calls this painting "Jesus on the Trampoline".
Hee hee hee hee hee!
Tomorrow - if you behave yourselves - I might take a wander with you around the scene in this last photo. That's the Cathedral on the left and St.Helen's and The Great Hospital on the right.I'm standing on the riverbank here. The river swings in a big loop to my right around The Great Hospital and ends up the other side of the Cathedral. It's a great place to walk.
32 comments:
What an amazing place! Those lucky old people to live in such a place. Do they realize how lovely it is and revel in it every day? It feeds the soul to have beauty about one, don't you think?
Your photos are marvelous. You seem to just catch 'the light' esp. the one of the cathedral through the arch.
Eat swans???? Ewww. I never heard of such a thing, but I guess there's not much difference between that and eating a goose. Not much meat on that neck, tho.
Happy New Year!
There's no denying it, God used to own (and I guess still does own) a lot of very pretty (and I imagine pretty valuable) real estate.
Great tale Son....how do you remember it all.....and the photo's are really good...loved Mikey's trampoline idea!!
Hi Cynthia.......
Hi, Cynthia! A very Happy New Year to you!
The old folk at the hospital do indeed realize how lucky they are. We had a good chuckle with one particularly perky old lady when we visited.
And the beauty of the setting makes the whole place feel serene. I've not even begun to show the water meadows and the river. It's a wonderful place.
Most of the residents' homes have a view either of the Cathedral or the riverside.
As for swans, from ancient times only royalty and royal sycophants have been permitted to eat them and you can still be jailed for it today.
The fact that royalty are - and always have been - so appallingly arrogant and utterly worthless as human beings that they would kill and eat such beautiful creatures only reinforces my anti-monarchist views.
You guys were wise to kick out George the Turd.
HI, Lucio. Luckily, the city took all of this away from God in 1249 and only lets God keep the little bit inside St.Helens' Church. The Great Hospital has been a fully secular institution since the Reformation and hoorah for that!
Mum, you know Mike; he looks at things from a different angle than most other people.
Very impressive work, Dive. You done good! I should be so lucky to end my days in such surroundings.
Meeting Katie in SF was a highlight of 2008, but I am afraid there isn't much for her to tell. There is a reason I read blogs, but don't blog. 'Nuff said!
Cali: I shall have to interrogate Katie on that one. I'm sure meeting you was a highlight for her, too.
It's wonderful to walk around the place with someone who knows the place and was actually involved in renovating it. Great commentary.
And "Jesus on the trampoline" made my day.
Happy New Year to you, Dive!
Thank you, Nathalie, and Happy New Year to you, too!
Mike has a sense of humour that would send sane people scurrying for cover. Working in the same room as him was impossible (yet we managed it for years) as it was difficult to breathe in between all the laughter.
He's a great guy.
I love those cottages. Who lives in them, I mean, who CAN live in them?
another lovely tour, sugar! i love your attitude towards your work and how it affected the residents. far too many architects design for their pleasure with no regard to livability or sense of place. i applaud you and mike for your sensibility to both and more! xoxox
Hi, Lynn.
The entry requirements for retiring there are about half way down yesterday comments in my reply to Terroni.
Regrettably, neither you nor me need apply.
Savannah: you are too kind as usual.
I must admit I've always liked the idea being a public servant rather than working for profit, which is why I work for a charity now and why I used to design care homes and look after old churches. The pay is crap but I can sleep at night.
xoxox
Thanks too much for the Great Hospital Tour
Jesus on a trampoline! Ah! Ah! well said.
Cloistered Life...Hee Hee Maybe not so bad! Don't you know "La Legende de la Nonne"from Geoges Brassens,
French Poet Singer?
And with a Dive and a Micke who are haunting the area ???
WOW I just got caught up with your Great Hospital tour, dive. What an amazing place and some good work was done by you and Mikey.
Thanks for sharing this.
Anonymous, it was my pleasure.
I'm afraid I don't know Brassens but will check him out.
Cheers, Rich!
Thanks for coming along for the tour. It's nice to be appreciated.
Wow! I've been busy trying to clean and such today so I postponed stopping by until now. Worth the wait though, as once again you've offered up an amazing segment of your grand tour of the Great Hospital. I can see why you're proud of the work you and Mike did here (although it sounds like there was way too much jocularity while on the job). What an amazing thing as an architect to be able to offer people the chance to enjoy beauty and comfort and serenity. I'm sure the residents very much appreciated the new kitchens and bathrooms. I'll try to behave as I very much want the chance to meander around the grounds tomorrow!
As for you Cali darling, your secrets are safe with me! People might be shocked to learn that we met up at for a Catholic mass in French in San Francisco, so I won't mention that part. Oops, too late.
Hi, Katie!
There's nothing wrong with a little jocularity while on the job … er.
And you can misbehave as much as you want; tomorrow I'll be interrupting the tour to have a thrash down at the studio.
Cali; you shall have to come clean and start blogging otherwise Katie is likely to let all of your secrets out of the bag. Hee hee.
Oh yes Dive,you have to check him out. You will surely love him.
I don't know if there is his work's english traslation.
I'm sorry my english too bad to translate it.
Keep in touch.
There's something very "clipped" about the authentic English soul, I think. Indeed, a meticulously manicured Buxus hedge looks rather shabby in comparison: as do the severity of Mondrian's minimalism and the puritanism of Shaker furniture. What softens it, of course, is a gentility and tenderness that (in the right doses) result in a kind of understated nobility - which is also a feature of your work, Dive.
Thanks for the tour - and the giggles.
Very, very nice. On behalf of the human race I want to "Thank You" for what you have done to preserve a part of history. You occasionally beat yourself up but let me assure you you are one talented man and I assure you there is no one quite your equal. You have skills that I could only dream of having. While you might not be Mother Theresa you have a incredibly decent soul. Im glad there are people on this planet like you. You have not disappointed your fellow man. And dont even get me started on your cookery skill and passion. I hope to share a pint with you someday.
Did you say Suffield Court was built in 1937 and bathrooms were unheard of at that time? I thought they were invented some time during the 19th Century. Wasn't it Thomas Crapper? I'll have to check.
Anyway, these buildings are incredible. What an honor to restore and modernize them while at the same time maintaining the original character. How large is the actual "campus" or whatever you would call "the grounds" .
I am so glad you did not include a recipe for Swan (with or without Risotto).
I'm so glad to hear that Norwich has always been a city of rebels.
I can't think of a more worthwhile project than this one Dive although I'd like to see the photos of the big house renovation too.
The painting is beautiful.
Hard to imagine anyone eating a swan and I'm glad that the practice was stopped in the 1950's but I take your point about a change of diet from bread and gruel in the 13th century.
I loved this post.
Katie: I am so glad you mentioned where we met up. I was going to, but wasn't sure how you would feel about it. I knew Dive would get a kick out of it. Now if you'll excuse me I have to polish my halo, if I can find the effing thing. :D
Cali I'm so relieved you're not mad I spilled the beans about our having attended mass! I probably didn't tell you that as I was heading over to SF to meet you and Lois for church I texted my Catholic friend John who was very worried for San Francisco as soon as he heard I was not only going into a Catholic church, but was going to actually attend a mass. He was sure my being there would cause the skies to open and the building to be struck by a huge bolt of lightening. I was a bit disappointed that nothing dramatic like that happened. Ha!
Anonymous: your English is great!
Hi, Lucio. Yes, we're a repressed bunch of buggers. I'm glad you liked the tour, though.
Mark: You are too kind, and thank you. The pint's on me, if only for making me sit here giggling like a fool thinking of Mother Theresa swearing like Old Dive. Hee hee.
Neetzy: Rich folk had bathrooms but this is an institution for the poor elderly and frail and is funded by voluntary donations so it takes a while to save up for things.
Even when I was a kid we had an outside privy and a tin bath on the floor of the kitchen filled from a standpipe and the copper on the old range. We got our first (very basic) bathroom in the mid 1960s.
The grounds are huge. They take up a massive loop in the river and include acres of beautiful water meadows dotted with willow and alder, plus many, many more buildings.
And yay for rebellion!
Hi, Mme. I had forgotten about Geldeston Hall until it came up in this post. I shall definitely dig out the old photos and scan them in for a post or two on the subject.
I'm so glad you're enjoying this little slice of old Norwich.
Hee hee, Cali! We are gradually finding out more about you.
Katie, that is so funny!
As a fellow Godless Heathen I love to invite the Big Old Bearded Guy to hit the SMITE button and zap me with lightning or drop a piano on my head, but it's never happened. If there really was a God I'd be fried for sure, especially with what goes on in my head these days!
You are the masters/mistresses of restraint, Dive. A very charming quality, if you ask me.
Hee hee! Thinking back on the Victorians - who gave us our repressed reputation - they also gave us our love of furtive S&M so yes indeed, mistresses of restraint can be found in every town, and very charming they are, too.
I've really enjoyed this, Dive. It strikes me that the difference between an architect and someone who just slaps up a pile of bricks is all in the views, interior and exterior. (Well, not all, but you get my meaning.)
Godless heathens unite! We, too, need a nice place to rest in our old age.
Maria: Bugger Blogger!
Thank you, Petrea. Over here, Architects are usually like me; shambling, middle-aged lefties in old sweaters who love old buildings as well as new.
And hoorah for being Godless!
When I visited England in 1999 I searched for a shambling, middle-aged British architect to marry. They were all taken, apparently. My visa ran out so I came back here and married a shambling, not-quite middle-aged writer. We're now shambling and middle-aged together. We'll visit.
Damn, damn, damn!
Hey ho. I'll have to find myself another California Girl.
Do let me know when you're coming over; you know how I like to pester visiting bloggers and walk their legs off around London. Hee hee.
Dive, you asked for it. We're in desperate need of tours of all sorts of obscure things. Plus you'll like John, he's a well-read curmudgeon.
We curmudgeons need to stick together.
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