Friday, February 22, 2008

All Saints, Blythburgh

As threatened, we're off today to visit All Saints' Church at Blythburgh.
Blythburgh is a tiny hamlet sitting on a sandy hillock just inland from Southwold and overlooking a vast tidal salt marsh, permanently a'twitch with birdwatchers.
It boasts about ten houses clustered around one of the largest churches in this or any other area.
And nothing else.
At all.
It's an odd kind of place.
You can see the outside of the church and the magnificent view of it from across the marsh in the piece I posted earlier this week, when I trudged across the frozen mud to photograph it.

The outside is beautiful; a massive, late Gothic, perpendicular priory church that would grace any city, yet here it is all on its lonesome, miles from anywhere.
Of course, my favourite part of the exterior is the quite astonishing dancing bear with a monster stiffy which I photographed for my second ever post (you'll have to click the link to see it because I'm sick of loading bloody photographs).
Those mediæval stonemasons liked a good giggle.
As you can only see it with a telephoto lens the size of your leg it has remained unnoticed for centuries and it was only thanks to Helly wanting me to photograph all of the carvings so she could reproduce some in her studio that we came across it.

Right. Enough prattle. Let's take a look inside, shall we?
(cue: sound effect of creaking door) …


A general view from behind the font gives an idea of the airy spaciousness achieved by the "perpendicular" style of late Gothic church architecture.
Contrast this with my photos of the massive, chunky Romanesque Norwich Cathedral (I can't be arsed to do another link; if you want to look, follow the "Norwich" link in the sidebar … it's somewhere down near the bottom of that).
I love the warmth of the old brick pamment floor. The whole church has a lovely "feel", not cold or uninviting like some places.


This is what most historians and architects come to see.
What can only be described by words such as beautiful, magnificent, spiffy or boffo; the incomparably splendid "Angel Roof".

Good, innit?


Blythburgh boasts a fabulous set of misericords, probably second only to Boston Stump.
I've got a full set of photos of these but I'm buggered if I'm loading all that lot up, so this will have to do.
Some of them are very odd indeed.

As is this guy.
I have no idea what he is, but I think all we need to know is that he is wearing a chamberpot on his head and sports a quite startling codpiece, which seems to have acquired somewhat more of a lustrous polish than the rest of him.

Spooky time.
Call in the Scooby Gang.
Shortly after the church was built a massive storm brought down the tower and the congregation cowering inside the church were not particularly comforted by the appearance of Satan himself.
Apparently he turned up in fancy dress as a big black dog, ran around for a bit and clawed his way out through this very door, leaving his burnt claw marks on the right hand leaf.
According to local folklore he then went off to terrorise Bungay, a tradition that little brother Phil and his reprobate cronies carry on most weekends to this very day.

This is a photo of one end of the rood screen.
Somewhere in it is hidden Old Dive.
Can you spot him?

Yup. There I am, bestowing my benedictions upon you all from a very odd little window, the use of which I've never quite figured out, though the BBC made good use of it when they recorded Songs Of Praise from here.
I have yet to be convinced that the mediæval builders put it there for the benfit of TV cameras, however.

This is the cool little staircase that leads up to it.

I like this one.
Clerestory windows are designed to do just this.
Lovely.

Here's that wonderful roof again, with the light from the clerestory doing its thang.

So that's Blythburgh All Saints' Church.

Spiffy, huh?

23 comments:

Istvanski said...

Very spiffy indeed. I love that ceiling and those angels hovering around up there. A church crammed with lots of good woodworking ornaments.

dive said...

Ah, a man who appreciates a good woody.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Spiffy indeed Dive. Love the thought of Full's sojourns. Perhaps that's where he is now, because for certain he's not been seen at his blog since the turn of the year. Maybe he's been taken in by a beautiful Bungay harem?

Photo loading is tiresome but please don't stop; it's just great. You could perhaps load less at each time so you don't get put off. I love them.

Can't see you no, unless it's you peeking in on the bottom right?

I used to live in a hamlet. It is rather odd, but 'special' in the way that it's pc to describe weirdys these days.

dive said...

Phil's busy making sports cars look pretty at the moment, Lynn. He'll start blogging again when things calm down a bit.

I'm in that tiny window above the rood screen, by the way, and tomorrow I may post some photos of the hamlet. It is rather beautiful.

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

He's a clever lad, that Full.

Can't wait for the hamlet!

dive said...

You weemen are so impatient!
Hee hee.

Scout said...

It's really beautiful, and the use of wood really does soften it up (shut up to whoever might interject an inappropriate comment here).

And who is that stylish woman in the first photo?

Utsav said...

Wow the angel roof is positively fabulous! Love it.
And LOL the dancing bear- wow, how's that for size! Hehe! The knight with the "chamberpot on his head" ain't doing too bad either. Did the masons really go wild on this church or what??

dive said...

Robyn: I had to step away from the keyboard and go for a walk to stop myself interjecting inappropriately.

And Mum loves you enough as it is, without buttering her up any more. Hee hee.

Utsav: mediæval stonemasons often put little in-jokes on their carvings where they thought they'd be out of sight of the ground (before the days of the telescope) but the bear with the boner is the most outrageous example I've found to date.

Anonymous said...

Hi Dive! Wonderful photos. A couple were a tad scary though :D

Love the history bits. I can think of a few stories that would make this a perfect setting. It does look vewy vewy old.

Hey, as you know I have been ill almost all of this week. Thom and I committed ourselves to join a group of Future Radio people to Go-Kart this Sunday. But in my current state, it wouldn't be prudent. So would you mind taking my place, enjoy the pleasures of go-karting in Cromer from 1030 to 4pm only for £30?

joy
A Pinay in England
Your Love Coach
The Goddess In You
Norwich Daily Photo

Neponset River Bridge Dig said...

Thanks for the tour dive. There are some nice shots there what kind of man wears a piss pot on his head and a cod piece?

Anyway, your blog has become more than "less interesting" with this kind of material.

Anonymous said...

Wow Dive, so nice to be able to be myself! Thank you. Now if I understood Latin, I might understand the "maybe" above; so I might need a translation of that!
I adore this church with all of its quirkiness. Thank you so much for the "tour".

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

You're right, Dive, i am unbelievably patient for such things. lol.

dive said...

I hope you feel better soon, Joy; what an awful week you have had.
Much as I'd love to go karting on Sunday, with my back I could never do that but thank you so much for the offer.

Rich: It's about to become less interesting again as we're due a cloudy weekend so I'll be catching up on housework and being grouchy.

Mme: I'm so glad you enjoyed the scenery.
As for the Latin, it's part of a longer quote from Ovid that I've taken out of context as I felt it appropriate for my sad old blog.
It translates (loosely) as "One day this sadness might actually be of some use".

Lynn: Hee, hee and hee again.

Shazza said...

That ceiling is gorgeous!

So...if you rub the codpiece, is it good luck?

dive said...

It IS for the man with the chamberpot on his head.

alicesg said...

Nice photos of the church with all the lovely architecture designs but the window looked quite dark and spooky.

M.Benaut said...

Certainly is spiffy with a bit of Mediæval Masonry Mischief stiffy thrown in. Ripper photos old son !
Don't get the stitch; we appreciate tremendously your efforts.

Katherine said...

Oh Dive, thank you so much for that incredible tour! What a lovely church. I was so taken by the angel....perched in wood when we usually see it in fresco, plaster, or just plain paint.

"Those mediæval stonemasons liked a good giggle." What a great line for a poem. I might steal it some day.

Do you think the pot-head was an Inquisitor?

dive said...

The window was really quite fun, Alice.

Cheers, Monsieur B. I think I have one more pretty post and then it's back to the usual crap.

Katherine, I'm not sure what the pot-head is meant to be, but the angels are truly beautiful, holding up the roof with their outstretched wings.

Maria said...

I must have sat for several moments just staring at these photos. SO gorgeous. I actually have this big lump in my throat and no idea why....

Jules said...

Dive - wow this is a stunning church - more photos please (although I am finding them difficult to download)

Have also had a soft spot for quirky guys but never had anything to do with one who has a chamber pot on his head - I guess there is always a first for everything!!!

Shazza - I'm sure the guy who owns the cod piece you were rubbing would think he was the lucky one!!!

dive said...

Maria: The Mother Country is calling!
We have real history and Montessori schools and only one day's snow a year! Plus you can walk hand in hand with Bing and gay marriages here include property and pension rights.
Never mind California; get Bing to look for work here.
Hee hee.

Jules: ALL men have had a pot on their head at some point in their lives.