Friday, July 24, 2009

Katie And Dive Do Southwold - Pt.2

Fish For Sale.

Yay!
Just as well, because all the walking in the last post made us hungry.

So here we are at Darren's wonderful emporium (somewhere you will often bump into mum and Mad Aunt Janet, as well as me): the inestimably splendid Sole Bay Fish Company, situated right on the fish dock of the harbour.

What shall we have, I wonder?

Ooooh … I do love a good wet-fish counter, though judging by its expression the fish at the top of Katie's picture doesn't share my enthusiasm.

As the old music hall song goes:
"She was only the fishmonger's daughter,
But she always had a wet plaice for me …"
Ahem.

Southwold's Sole Bay is famous not only for staging one of the most hideous and blood-soaked naval battles ever fought, where the Royal Navy went head to head against the Dutch in what Pepys described the next day as "floating slaughterhouses" until so few were left alive that they had to call it a draw and limp home, but it is also the home of the best Dover Sole on the planet.
Here is the morning's catch, fresh and glistening and mouth-wateringly delicious.
Mmmmmmmmmmmmm …

However, having no means to cook fish and other places to visit before we went home we plumped for plump, fresh, juicy cockles with a side order of crayfish tails.

Which we proceeded to demolish right there on the fish dock, driving the local seagulls crazy.

And afterward, we promenaded lazily back across the marsh and up the hill into town.
If you click on the photo to enlarge it you can just make out the lighthouse in the distance here.
That's where we are headed.

Here's the town sign, where the English and Dutch men'o'war are still firing broadside after broadside into one another.
Within sight of this sign is Adnams' brewery (finest in the world, according to me … and most other members of the Campaign for Real Ale), one of whose beers is called Broadside in honour of the battle and is - appropriately - a real skullcracker.

We finished our lunchtime repast with yummy (and allegedly nutritious) organic ice creams.

And then headed for one of my favourite watering holes: the Sole Bay Inn.

From the front door, you look out over Sole Bay itself from the top of the cliff, and being only a hundred yards from the brewery the beer is totally awesome!

Here is Katie about to get her first taste of the finest liquid available to humanity, "Adnams bitter".
I grew up on it and will always love its distinctive flavour of river water and old tin.
Honestly, it's won more awards than most other beers put together and is the real ale drinkers' real ale.

Katie's verdict:
"It needs to be served cold."

Ah, well … You can take the girl out of America but you can't take America out of the girl.
I shall do my utmost to educate her. I promise.

Here's the view from Katie's seat, which kinda makes up for the beer being served at precisely the correct temperature.
Click on this one for some bonus "gnarly old fisherman" action down in the bottom left corner.

So … replete, happy and with our breath an intriguing mix of cockles, ice cream and beer, we headed off, back past the quaint fishermen's cottages …

… past the Regency splendour …

… and past the David Hasselhoff Fan Club …

Until our next visit, Southwold continues its picturesque journey at its own speed.

20 comments:

Anonymous said...

Beautiful day, lovely outing. A perfect place to fall in love. Then top it off with cockles, ice cream, and warm bitter. Oh, I think I'd better lie down.

from cali said...

"I shall do my utmost to educate her. I promise." Oh my, you do love to live dangerously! Even I know beer should be served cold and I don't even drink beer. :D

The Regency splendour is splendid. The blue sky looks inviting and the walk sounds tiring, but romantic. All in all a good day.

MmeBenaut said...

Dearest Dive, you know I can't look at fish but I can look at Katie all day long. Although I'm not a beer drinker, I suspect that Katie might be right. We serve beer in Oz, icy cold, or at least so I'm told.
I'll be in the snow for a week but will pop in when I get back. xx

Cynthia said...

Another lovely trip through Southwold. That fish sign reminds me of the song...'cockles and mussels, alive alive oh.' I love fish and could eat it at every meal; so great seeing those fresh specimens. But you DO have David the fishmonger in Norwich. Lovely living by the sea.

Alifan said...

Darren would be very pleased to know he got his fish on our blogs!!

Katie I like cold beer, but Adnams should be drunk without the chill.... but if that is all you can complain about you are not doing too bad.....and as you know that Ice cream is great... yummy....

Cynthia maybe one day you will see our nice flat countryside, you Katie and your family have travelled far and wide, but it is really laid back and soothing around this area....and there is something very magical about Southwold...even if Dive thinks we all go at the Dead Slow pace.. tee hee...

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Mmmm lovely. Shouldn't the gentleman in you have been helping Katie up the hill by the hand, not the other way around? ;) The beach looks gorgeous and the little fishermen's cottages are sweet. Cold lager, warm beer. :)

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Btw; cockles mmmmmmmmmMMMMMMMMMMM

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

I see you've sneakily skirted my last comment of yesterday then ;) ok.

Katie said...

MmeB I can't wait to visit Oz where the beer is icy cold! And speaking of cold, have fun in the snow!

Alifan besides the warm Adnams, the cockles could have used a bit of ketchup. And it was a bit too windy. Hee hee!

Lynn I actually wasn't walking up a hill, I was walking on a wall and Dive still wanted to hold my hand. Awwwwww. And I disagree -- cold lager, cold beer! As for your comment yesterday, you better behave!

Sarah Williams said...

And btw....what quarrel did the lovely Dutch have with you-all, anyway?

Scout said...

I love the comment, "It needs to be served cold." Why do you people not have cold beverages?

dive said...

Lupine Lady: That pretty much sums it up!

Cali: I do indeed like to live dangerously. Inevitably, however, it will be Katie who teaches me rather than the other way round.

Mme: Have a great trip! Be careful of your back when you ski. I'll be thinking of you.

Cynthia: Yes, Southwold vertainly gets a lot of coverage on mum's blog and over here.
Now I'll have that song stuck in my head all day. Hee hee. And one can never have too many good fishmongers.

Mum: at least you walk at a decent pace; I remember your silly friend from the Mad Bints coming to visit and saying she didn't mind walking then doing nothing but moan and complain … I don't think she'd walked more than five yards in her entire life.

Lynn: You'll have to go there with your mum and dad when you're next up here in decent weather.

Sorry for the lack of replies to your comments today but work has been frantic and I am only just home (whew).

Katie: Lynn is absolutely correct: cold lager / warm beer.
German beer (lager) and its derivatives (American and Aussie beers) are refreshing when drunk cold, but they really do need to be chilled to get rid of their horrid taste (try drinking them at room temperature … they're foul).
Real ale - on the other hand - should (like red wine) be drunk at only a few degrees below room temperature to allow the beautiful and complex flavours full rein.

We can educate one another on our respective nations' beverages. It should be fun … though whether we'll remember any of it afterwards could be a moot point.

Sarah: James II of England and William III of Holland were at a soirée when William Bogarted a joint.
It kicked off with a handbag fight and escalated from there.
A tragic tale.

dive said...

Robyn: We have taste!
(see above explanation).
Hee hee

from cali said...

Hee hee, loved the history lesson. Handbags can be a dangerous thing especially in the wrong hands!
&*$#@! now I have to resort to Google to sort out what really happened. 8-)

neetzy said...

I wish we had real fish markets around here. They do exist in Baltimore where I spent the last weekend. (I will post on that soon). Tonight I am going for a South Carolina seafood boil. I'm not sure what that is, but I haven't found a seafood that I don't like.
As for beer temperature, I do prefer full-bodied ales at room temperature. My husband used to brew his own. I was surprised to find most of the beer in Ireland chilled.

BTW Does your T-shirt say "Do not touch this work of Art?"

Cheltenhamdailyphoto said...

Ahhh Katie that IS lovely! Ok then I'll behave. Sulk. LOL.

Btw KETCHUP? on cockles? EEK. I'm not a lover of ketchup anyway but ... eek again. lol I do love the swapping of national tastes here!

I shall Dive, definitely when I'm next there, I'll take them.

Katie said...

Uh Lynn, I was kidding about the ketchup. Not about the cold beer, but seriously what kind of uncouth American do you take me for anyway? Maybe ketchup on mushy peas - I'll have to try that one.

dive said...

Cali: I consulted my (many) history books and - even though James and William had a big barney (the Glorious Revolution) it was Jimmy's predecessor, Charles II who set the whole thing off.
Royalty … huh! They're nothing but trouble.

Neetzy: Baltimore sounds fab. Lots of photos, please, and say hi to Terroni (now DOCTOR Terroni) while you're there.

Plus:
YAY FOR YOU!
I'm going to have to figure out some kind of prize.
Yes, the teeshirt says precisely that. It is a present from Katie from the San Francisco MOMA.
Katie has her own very special link to Louis Braille (whose anniversary year this is). You shall have to ask her what it is.

Hoorah also for your husband for his appreciation of the finer things in life.

Lynn: Hee hee. Actually Katie enjoyed her cockles with a twist of fresh ground pepper and a dash of malt vinegar, just how they are supposed to be enjoyed.
She loves winding up the English as much as I love winding up the Colonials.

Katie: Yes … cod and chips and mushy peas with ketchup is definitely on the menu. Hee hee.

Jacques-Arthur said...

Real Ale, that sounds really worth a trip. For a long time, I thought Guiness was a great english beer .. until I met an Irishman. Later I tasted actual english ales. Another great and well-kept secret

Now what's this thing about Warm ale? I assume this may perhaps be one of those oddities which you Anglians use as a test to check whether one was born there : Marmite, tin-can steack-and-kidney-pie (great in pubs but in tin cans..), boiled mint-flavored beef -- note that we have a stock of similar eat-only-if-born-here stuff across the Channel too.

dive said...

J-A: Our local ale is delicious, as I hope you'll discover for yourself one day, but yes, it does have to be served at slightly below room temperature to get the best from it.

The Adnams' Broadside I mentioned is also yummy; it's a bottled ale and is not unlike a good Bière de Gard.

I can't wait to try your own speciality foods.
For one thing I am eager to test boudin noir against our own local black pudding!
Roll on October!